THE NATIVE GRAPES
VOLCANO
The mere mention of the ‘word’ conjures up fearful images of a destructive potential so immense that its almost impossible to comprehend its capacity to create something of, well,….beauty
Fortunately for us TENUTA DI FESSINA have already come to appreciate this essential fact. For our part, while getting up close and personal with a live volcano is not something we do every evening, our recent tasting of
A’ Puddara 2013, has brought our level of understanding to significant new heights.
On the south facing slopes of Etna, at +900 metres a.s.l, Silvia Maestrelli and her winery team have not only
developed a familial rapport with one of mother natures greatest forces but also with one of mother natures greatest gifts, Etna’s very own native white variety, Carricante.
TENUTA DI FESSINA
– A’ Puddara –
Etna Bianco 2013
Native Variety: 100% Carricante
– STYLE EXPECTATIONS –
On the Eye:
Imagine luminous, straw-coloured light and you’ll be there.
On the Nose:
Fittingly the immediate impact is one of total elegance. Floral, fresh lemon and herbs underpinned by a rich seam of flint stone. Opens a little further to a creamy texture with a tincture of stone fruit, mediterranean style. Nothing overstated. Just in perfect measure. Beautiful it has to be said.
On the Palate:
Dry and fresh with that much anticipated minerality. The pronounced flint and smoke notes do tend to subdue the more delicate fruit elements but there’s nothing to fear as the crisp acidity sculpts and polishes gracefully to ultimately deliver a stellar white of outsanding balance and poise.
As much as A’ Puddara is an expression of its unique volcanic terroir, it’s equally a pure introduction to Carricante’s rare native beauty.
With little more than 150 hectares planted to it’s name, mostly on Etna, up to a decade ago it was a grape whose identity would have largely gone unnoticed in blends. Yet today in the courageous and cultured hands of producers like Tenuta di Fessina, Carricante’s future at these mountainous altitudes is secure. Or at least for as long as Etna herself will allow it.
Never again will we let the lava flow of time or thought pass us by.
Quite simply, Tenuta di Fessina’s A’ Puddara 2013 kissed our lips and mouth…
…Damien, seems you were right all along… volcanoes really can melt you down !
Happily counting our lucky stars until our next encounter with the enchanting A’ Puddara and Carricante!
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