Fulvio himself isn’t much bothered about all these media descriptors. He is solely focused on what BRESSAN does. Here in Farra d’Isonzo and the neigbouring townlands of Corona, everything they do is either totally HANDS-ON or totally HANDS-OFF.

In the vineyard, ‘IF’ and ‘ONLY IF’ the vineyard deems it necessary, Fulvio says only natural fertilisers from the barn may be employed. ALL chemical and synthetic products including pesticides and herbicides are banned. With all vines pruned to 4-5 buds, the BRESSAN vineyards are also farmed dry, as in, not irrigated. Fulvio pointed out that where their vineyards lie, it’s not far from the Isonzo river. Here the relatively poor gravel topped soil composition encourages vine roots to channel deep to find their life-saving water source. On this raised part of the Isonzo plain, at a depth of 5 metres, it’s a nutrient rich, stress free zone. The vines simply love it. Fulvio emphasized how dry farming is essential for any grower who wants to maintain the authentic wealth and intensity of the grapes aromatic profile. Recognising the value of his vineyard locations, you begin to understand why BRESSAN wines are uniquely BRESSAN.

As a curious footnote to the dry farming topic, although Friuli is considered Italy’s wettest region, in recent years we’ve begun to observe the introduction of vineyard irrigation drip systems in both low and high ground locations. Used for emergencies to combat issues associated with increasingly common summer droughts, it suggests that climate change is a real and growing concern in these parts.

But they could easily be, when you take account of the intensive care they apply in their daily practices. And that’s it, they CARE. They REALLY CARE. It’s unquestionable. Clearly defined, Fulvio pointed out that if fruit quality is not up-to-scratch, the grapes simply won’t make it to the cellar. As if proof were needed, he outlined how and when multiple vintages were indeed passed over.

In the main regarding the market approach of largescale corporate winemakers. They themselves will surely accept that by their size & nature, their’s has become much more of a ‘manufacturing process’ and much less of a creative one. The mass market is a battlefield driven by big numbers. Large customers demanding large quantities in a double quick time. WINE is now such a fast moving business sector, that it regrettably appears unable to take the necessary time to consider the REAL impact of its decision-making. Let’s emphasize ‘decision-making’ rather than ‘winemaking’. The weight of ‘decision-making’ pressures industrial minds into ‘action’, the efficient use of resources, time and money saving measures. More often than not, such measures regrettably create not-so-friendly environmental consequences, in the vineyard and the cellar. One shudders thinking of some of the allowable synthetic ‘corrections & additions’ that are still used to produce what on labels is still referred to as WINE. Reflecting on the thriving ‘natural’ debate, the discussion is surely moving to ‘what is best for us all, what is healthy and what is right for our environment’. And the natural point of view is increasingly compelling. In Europe, it’ll be interesting to see what happens when the EU finally brings wine ‘ingredient’ labeling to the top of their agenda.

And also by the majority of producers, especially those who now find themselves immersed in the ‘natural’ wine movement. A natural, raw phenomenon, it is born out of a ‘people-powered’ desire to both create and consume real, artisan produce. Shared values. Real values. Human and environmental values.

Isabelle Legeron MW, founder of RAW WINE, offers a clear interpretation of Natural Wine in terms of “being farmed organically (biodynamically, using permaculture or the like) and made (or rather transformed) without adding or removing anything in the cellar. No additives or processing aids are used, and ‘intervention’ in the naturally occurring fermentation process is kept to a minimum. As such neither fining nor (tight) filtration are used. The result is a living wine – wholesome and full of naturally occurring microbiology.”

Industrial winemaking interests may continue struggling to agree with it but there is no escaping it. Here in Italy, the growing diffusion of this wine story, through word-of-mouth, has certainly found courage in the global success of long standing movements like SLOW FOOD. Press, magazine & blog column inches are progressively dedicated to the open discussion about ‘Natural / Organic / Biologic / Biodynamic / Raw / Real’ wines, wines being created by nature focused, quality driven winemakers. Winemakers just like BRESSAN. While their individual approaches may differ, all of these craftspeople have one thing in common. Their’s is not a mere fashion statement. It is a Philosophical one, fulfilling a REAL existing demand. A demand that is growing fast, and get this, a demand which is CONSUMER led. Like a rolling stone, the economic tables are turning.