Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a white grape, native to the Tuscan medieval municipality of San Gimignano.

Now, depending on your approach to the inspiring City of Towers, its located southwest of Firenze or northwest of Siena. Red wine country we hear you say. Well indeed. But to miss the chance of discovering this white treasure, would be to miss one of Italy’s and natures best.

Here the rolling hillside vineyards surrounding the city are mostly planted on rich calcareous soils.

Not to mention marl, sandstone and even sand. You see a good swathe of this region was once under sea, leaving its fossilized remains as a parting gift when the tides retreated. Not surprisingly the Vernaccia di San Gimignano vine and its medium-thick skinned berries thrive on these mineral riches with seasonal growth being fairly vigorous. Remember we’re talking central Toscana, so the summer generally comes with plenty of Mediterranean sunshine and heat.

Thinking about all the harvests of its lengthy recorded history, dating back as far as the 1200’s, the fortunes of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, like so many native grapes have regularly peaked and troughed.

Fortunately for us, we’re around during one of its peaks. You see modern wine-making techniques in the hands of innovative producers have brought a wider dynamic to this grapes potential.

Not only does it fill the appealing role of a fresh, youthful, easy-drinking white, it can also take on the challenge of being more distinctively age-worthy. And it’s the latter, under its Riserva standard, which tends to resonate more among many of us adventurous commentators and consumers.

You see it’s not so common that a white grape would be considered capable, or even worthy of ageing.

But that’s where the current Vernaccia di San Gimignano sets itself apart. It is considered both capable and worthy. Worthy indeed becoming as it did Italy’s first awarded DOC wine in 1966, later going on to receive its topflight DOCG status in 1993. Quality roots.

As a crisp and youthful white, it’s most likely to be completely fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks for release sometime during the following year. As a Riserva, there’s a minimum of 11 months ageing (usually in oak/wooden vats) from January 1st of the year following the harvest plus 3 months bottle ageing before release. Patience and an intelligent hand are needed not to overdue the wood. Got to keep it real.

WINE STYLE

In its very youthful guise it’s often quite a pale straw yellow with light green to yellow reflections. A marked contrast to the richer yellow gold of the ‘Riserva’. But remember much can also depend on whether a winemaker opts for a period of skin contact at the start of fermentation. Hence, when you see ‘Riserva’ on the label, it already gives you a clear heads up about what you’re dealing with

Most things depend on age, maturity and the use of oak. On the young unoaked side, you’ll find Fresh Floral and Citrus Fruit notes that will drift into riper, softer maybe even exotic fruits, sweet perfumed spice and savoury notes for the Riserva. Oak well handled by the winemaker and those perfumed results can turn out to be outstanding. A drop behind the ear wouldn’t go amiss.

In whatever form you find, Vernaccia di San Gimignano’s structure should initially sit up with its acidity and minerality. In its youth it may not float the boat for too long. But with the Riserva, if the acidity remains fresh, it can lead to some exceptional results, as vintages in the last 10 years will attest to. In this event, Balance, Elegance, Allure and let’s call it Straight Up ‘Beauty’ will come to mind. That’s almost as good as a promise.

So you’ve got a Choice – Vernaccia di San Gimignano – a cool, youthful white for a hot summers eve or an ageworthy Riserva for something more alluring, enduring, up close and personal?

We talked it through with LANA DEL REY (…ok, so it was ONLY a dream)

but here’s how she called it…

Vernaccia di San Gimignano has ‘seen the world, done it all…. hot summer nights, crazy days, city lights, rock n roll…..yet, Lana’s still wondering…. will we still love it when it’s no longer Young & Beautiful ?

Well of course we will Lana. Thankfully that’s what the ‘RISERVA’ is for. And even when it may no longer be young, its allure will always be beautiful. Just like you, Lana… Just like you.

Young & Beautiful – Lana Del Rey

GRAPEWATCH KEEPING AN EYE ON: VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO

and of course the ever-lovely LANA DEL REY

Be sure to check out:
FONTALEONI
SONO MONTENIDOLI
PANIZZI
IL COLOMBAIO DI SANTA CHIARA